Planning notes and dispatches from the road.
October 2026·La Paz, Bolivia
Bolivia smells like Popcorn
I've crossed a lot of borders on this trip, and most of them involve a grumpy border agent in a dimly lit building, a crooked stamp and a different color of currency. This one smelled like popcorn. And then, the highest capital city in the world handed me a seat in the sky and gave me an emphatic “Buenos días!”
Read more →August 2026·Acobambilla, Peru - along the Peru Great Divide
Subida y Bajada
The remoteness of this route is unrelenting. The towns are tiny, the transport is sparse, the mountains are high, and the wind is cold. I go days with no phone signal or resupply. Hours awake in my sleeping bag because it’s the only warm place after the sun goes down.
Read more →July 2026·Quilotoa, Ecuador
Yanka Shimi
“Useless language.” Useless for what? For the economy the colonizer built, in the language the colonizer brought, judged by the standard the colonizer set.
"Lengua inútil." ¿Inútil para qué? Para la economía que construyó el colonizador, en el idioma que trajo el colonizador, medida con el estándar que puso el colonizador.
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